Physics of Traveling Waves in Shallow Water Environment

We present a study of the physical characteristics of traveling waves at shallow and intermediate water depths. The main subject of study is to the influence of nonlinearity on the dispersion properties of waves, their limiting heights and steepness, the shape of solitary waves, etc. A fully nonline...

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Autores principales:	Igor Shugan, Sergey Kuznetsov, Yana Saprykina, Yang-Yih Chen
Formato:	article
Lenguaje:	EN
Publicado:	MDPI AG 2021
Materias:	shallow water traveling waves nonlinear waves Boussinesq model Hydraulic engineering TC1-978 Water supply for domestic and industrial purposes TD201-500
Acceso en línea:	https://doaj.org/article/281ca8eddfaa4aadaaa64a96e9f366a7
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id	oai:doaj.org-article:281ca8eddfaa4aadaaa64a96e9f366a7
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spelling	oai:doaj.org-article:281ca8eddfaa4aadaaa64a96e9f366a72021-11-11T19:53:52ZPhysics of Traveling Waves in Shallow Water Environment10.3390/w132129902073-4441https://doaj.org/article/281ca8eddfaa4aadaaa64a96e9f366a72021-10-01T00:00:00Zhttps://www.mdpi.com/2073-4441/13/21/2990https://doaj.org/toc/2073-4441We present a study of the physical characteristics of traveling waves at shallow and intermediate water depths. The main subject of study is to the influence of nonlinearity on the dispersion properties of waves, their limiting heights and steepness, the shape of solitary waves, etc. A fully nonlinear Serre–Green–Naghdi-type model, a classical weakly nonlinear Boussinesq model and fifth-order Stokes wave solutions were chosen as models for comparison. The analysis showed significant, if not critical, differences in the effect of nonlinearity on the properties of traveling waves for these models. A comparison with experiments was carried out on the basis of the results of a joint Russian–Taiwanese experiment, which was carried out in 2015 at the Tainan Hydraulic Laboratory, and on available experimental data. A comparison with the experimental results confirms the applicability of a completely nonlinear model for calculating traveling waves over the entire range of applicability of the model in contrast to the Boussinesq model, which shows contradictory and unrealistic wave properties for moderate wavelengths.Igor ShuganSergey KuznetsovYana SaprykinaYang-Yih ChenMDPI AGarticleshallow watertraveling wavesnonlinear wavesBoussinesq modelHydraulic engineeringTC1-978Water supply for domestic and industrial purposesTD201-500ENWater, Vol 13, Iss 2990, p 2990 (2021)
institution	DOAJ
collection	DOAJ
language	EN
topic	shallow water traveling waves nonlinear waves Boussinesq model Hydraulic engineering TC1-978 Water supply for domestic and industrial purposes TD201-500
spellingShingle	shallow water traveling waves nonlinear waves Boussinesq model Hydraulic engineering TC1-978 Water supply for domestic and industrial purposes TD201-500 Igor Shugan Sergey Kuznetsov Yana Saprykina Yang-Yih Chen Physics of Traveling Waves in Shallow Water Environment
description	We present a study of the physical characteristics of traveling waves at shallow and intermediate water depths. The main subject of study is to the influence of nonlinearity on the dispersion properties of waves, their limiting heights and steepness, the shape of solitary waves, etc. A fully nonlinear Serre–Green–Naghdi-type model, a classical weakly nonlinear Boussinesq model and fifth-order Stokes wave solutions were chosen as models for comparison. The analysis showed significant, if not critical, differences in the effect of nonlinearity on the properties of traveling waves for these models. A comparison with experiments was carried out on the basis of the results of a joint Russian–Taiwanese experiment, which was carried out in 2015 at the Tainan Hydraulic Laboratory, and on available experimental data. A comparison with the experimental results confirms the applicability of a completely nonlinear model for calculating traveling waves over the entire range of applicability of the model in contrast to the Boussinesq model, which shows contradictory and unrealistic wave properties for moderate wavelengths.
format	article
author	Igor Shugan Sergey Kuznetsov Yana Saprykina Yang-Yih Chen
author_facet	Igor Shugan Sergey Kuznetsov Yana Saprykina Yang-Yih Chen
author_sort	Igor Shugan
title	Physics of Traveling Waves in Shallow Water Environment
title_short	Physics of Traveling Waves in Shallow Water Environment
title_full	Physics of Traveling Waves in Shallow Water Environment
title_fullStr	Physics of Traveling Waves in Shallow Water Environment
title_full_unstemmed	Physics of Traveling Waves in Shallow Water Environment
title_sort	physics of traveling waves in shallow water environment
publisher	MDPI AG
publishDate	2021
url	https://doaj.org/article/281ca8eddfaa4aadaaa64a96e9f366a7
work_keys_str_mv	AT igorshugan physicsoftravelingwavesinshallowwaterenvironment AT sergeykuznetsov physicsoftravelingwavesinshallowwaterenvironment AT yanasaprykina physicsoftravelingwavesinshallowwaterenvironment AT yangyihchen physicsoftravelingwavesinshallowwaterenvironment
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Physics of Traveling Waves in Shallow Water Environment

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