Headland Rip Modelling at a Natural Beach under High-Energy Wave Conditions

A XBeach surfbeat model is used to explore the dynamics of natural headland rip circulation under a broad range of incident wave conditions and tide level. The model was calibrated and extensively validated against measurements collected in the vicinity of a 500-m rocky headland. Modelled bulk hydro...

Descripción completa

Guardado en:

Detalles Bibliográficos
Autores principales:	Arthur Mouragues, Philippe Bonneton, Bruno Castelle, Kévin Martins
Formato:	article
Lenguaje:	EN
Publicado:	MDPI AG 2021
Materias:	headland rips extreme events XBeach modelling Naval architecture. Shipbuilding. Marine engineering VM1-989 Oceanography GC1-1581
Acceso en línea:	https://doaj.org/article/31b02df7c8eb47148a4782f3b2b7db60
Etiquetas:	Agregar Etiqueta Sin Etiquetas, Sea el primero en etiquetar este registro!

id	oai:doaj.org-article:31b02df7c8eb47148a4782f3b2b7db60
record_format	dspace
spelling	oai:doaj.org-article:31b02df7c8eb47148a4782f3b2b7db602021-11-25T18:03:46ZHeadland Rip Modelling at a Natural Beach under High-Energy Wave Conditions10.3390/jmse91111612077-1312https://doaj.org/article/31b02df7c8eb47148a4782f3b2b7db602021-10-01T00:00:00Zhttps://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/9/11/1161https://doaj.org/toc/2077-1312A XBeach surfbeat model is used to explore the dynamics of natural headland rip circulation under a broad range of incident wave conditions and tide level. The model was calibrated and extensively validated against measurements collected in the vicinity of a 500-m rocky headland. Modelled bulk hydrodynamic quantities were in good agreement with measurements for two wave events during which deflection rips were captured. In particular, the model was able to reproduce the tidal modulation and very-low-frequency fluctuations (≈1 h period) of the deflection rip during the 4-m wave event. For that event, the synoptic flow behaviour shows the large spatial coverage of the rip which extended 1600 m offshore at low tide, when the surf zone limit extends beyond the headland tip. These results emphasize a deflection mechanism different from conceptualised deflection mechanisms based on the boundary length to surf zone width ratio. Further simulations indicate that the adjacent embayment is responsible for the seaward extent of the rip under energetic wave conditions. The present study shows that the circulation patterns along natural rugged coastlines are strongly controlled by the natural variability of the coastal morphology, including headland shape and adjacent embayments, which has implications on headland bypassing expressions.Arthur MouraguesPhilippe BonnetonBruno CastelleKévin MartinsMDPI AGarticleheadland ripsextreme eventsXBeach modellingNaval architecture. Shipbuilding. Marine engineeringVM1-989OceanographyGC1-1581ENJournal of Marine Science and Engineering, Vol 9, Iss 1161, p 1161 (2021)
institution	DOAJ
collection	DOAJ
language	EN
topic	headland rips extreme events XBeach modelling Naval architecture. Shipbuilding. Marine engineering VM1-989 Oceanography GC1-1581
spellingShingle	headland rips extreme events XBeach modelling Naval architecture. Shipbuilding. Marine engineering VM1-989 Oceanography GC1-1581 Arthur Mouragues Philippe Bonneton Bruno Castelle Kévin Martins Headland Rip Modelling at a Natural Beach under High-Energy Wave Conditions
description	A XBeach surfbeat model is used to explore the dynamics of natural headland rip circulation under a broad range of incident wave conditions and tide level. The model was calibrated and extensively validated against measurements collected in the vicinity of a 500-m rocky headland. Modelled bulk hydrodynamic quantities were in good agreement with measurements for two wave events during which deflection rips were captured. In particular, the model was able to reproduce the tidal modulation and very-low-frequency fluctuations (≈1 h period) of the deflection rip during the 4-m wave event. For that event, the synoptic flow behaviour shows the large spatial coverage of the rip which extended 1600 m offshore at low tide, when the surf zone limit extends beyond the headland tip. These results emphasize a deflection mechanism different from conceptualised deflection mechanisms based on the boundary length to surf zone width ratio. Further simulations indicate that the adjacent embayment is responsible for the seaward extent of the rip under energetic wave conditions. The present study shows that the circulation patterns along natural rugged coastlines are strongly controlled by the natural variability of the coastal morphology, including headland shape and adjacent embayments, which has implications on headland bypassing expressions.
format	article
author	Arthur Mouragues Philippe Bonneton Bruno Castelle Kévin Martins
author_facet	Arthur Mouragues Philippe Bonneton Bruno Castelle Kévin Martins
author_sort	Arthur Mouragues
title	Headland Rip Modelling at a Natural Beach under High-Energy Wave Conditions
title_short	Headland Rip Modelling at a Natural Beach under High-Energy Wave Conditions
title_full	Headland Rip Modelling at a Natural Beach under High-Energy Wave Conditions
title_fullStr	Headland Rip Modelling at a Natural Beach under High-Energy Wave Conditions
title_full_unstemmed	Headland Rip Modelling at a Natural Beach under High-Energy Wave Conditions
title_sort	headland rip modelling at a natural beach under high-energy wave conditions
publisher	MDPI AG
publishDate	2021
url	https://doaj.org/article/31b02df7c8eb47148a4782f3b2b7db60
work_keys_str_mv	AT arthurmouragues headlandripmodellingatanaturalbeachunderhighenergywaveconditions AT philippebonneton headlandripmodellingatanaturalbeachunderhighenergywaveconditions AT brunocastelle headlandripmodellingatanaturalbeachunderhighenergywaveconditions AT kevinmartins headlandripmodellingatanaturalbeachunderhighenergywaveconditions
_version_	1718411669579759616

Headland Rip Modelling at a Natural Beach under High-Energy Wave Conditions

Ejemplares similares