Hangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial

Abstract Improving climbing performance strongly depends upon effective training methods. Hangboard training is one of the most popular approaches to increase finger and forearm strength. Training protocols are based on maximizing weight or minimizing edges. We aimed to evaluate which of these proto...

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Autores principales:	Saskia Mundry, Gino Steinmetz, Elizabeth J. Atkinson, Arndt F. Schilling, Volker R. Schöffl, Dominik Saul
Formato:	article
Lenguaje:	EN
Publicado:	Nature Portfolio 2021
Materias:	Medicine R Science Q
Acceso en línea:	https://doaj.org/article/3ca7086dbe44457fbd3e44fd8d1e66a8
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spelling	oai:doaj.org-article:3ca7086dbe44457fbd3e44fd8d1e66a82021-12-02T14:33:51ZHangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial10.1038/s41598-021-92898-22045-2322https://doaj.org/article/3ca7086dbe44457fbd3e44fd8d1e66a82021-06-01T00:00:00Zhttps://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-021-92898-2https://doaj.org/toc/2045-2322Abstract Improving climbing performance strongly depends upon effective training methods. Hangboard training is one of the most popular approaches to increase finger and forearm strength. Training protocols are based on maximizing weight or minimizing edges. We aimed to evaluate which of these protocols was superior. We prospectively analyzed 30 intermediate to advanced climbing athletes [Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) VI–VIII] and randomized them into three groups: control group C (Control, normal climbing training), hangboard group HE (Hang endurance, grips to hold for a determined time decreased every week), and hangboard group HW (Hang weight, + 1.25 kg weight were added each week to hold for a determined time). As endpoints, we measured the grip strength before and after an 8-week training protocol in seven different pinches. Over the 8-week training period, HW hangboard training significantly improved the climbers’ grip strength compared to C [p = 0.032, effect size (ES) 0.36]. Maximizing weight improved the strength in I/II + III, I/II + III + IV and fist significantly. HW was superior compared to C in terms of grip strength improvement in three out of seven pinches and overall grip strength. The overall changes in the HE group did not differ significantly from the C group. An 8-week training protocol with increasing weights (HW) significantly improved overall grip strength more than a regular climbing training without the use of a hangboard.Saskia MundryGino SteinmetzElizabeth J. AtkinsonArndt F. SchillingVolker R. SchöfflDominik SaulNature PortfolioarticleMedicineRScienceQENScientific Reports, Vol 11, Iss 1, Pp 1-8 (2021)
institution	DOAJ
collection	DOAJ
language	EN
topic	Medicine R Science Q
spellingShingle	Medicine R Science Q Saskia Mundry Gino Steinmetz Elizabeth J. Atkinson Arndt F. Schilling Volker R. Schöffl Dominik Saul Hangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial
description	Abstract Improving climbing performance strongly depends upon effective training methods. Hangboard training is one of the most popular approaches to increase finger and forearm strength. Training protocols are based on maximizing weight or minimizing edges. We aimed to evaluate which of these protocols was superior. We prospectively analyzed 30 intermediate to advanced climbing athletes [Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) VI–VIII] and randomized them into three groups: control group C (Control, normal climbing training), hangboard group HE (Hang endurance, grips to hold for a determined time decreased every week), and hangboard group HW (Hang weight, + 1.25 kg weight were added each week to hold for a determined time). As endpoints, we measured the grip strength before and after an 8-week training protocol in seven different pinches. Over the 8-week training period, HW hangboard training significantly improved the climbers’ grip strength compared to C [p = 0.032, effect size (ES) 0.36]. Maximizing weight improved the strength in I/II + III, I/II + III + IV and fist significantly. HW was superior compared to C in terms of grip strength improvement in three out of seven pinches and overall grip strength. The overall changes in the HE group did not differ significantly from the C group. An 8-week training protocol with increasing weights (HW) significantly improved overall grip strength more than a regular climbing training without the use of a hangboard.
format	article
author	Saskia Mundry Gino Steinmetz Elizabeth J. Atkinson Arndt F. Schilling Volker R. Schöffl Dominik Saul
author_facet	Saskia Mundry Gino Steinmetz Elizabeth J. Atkinson Arndt F. Schilling Volker R. Schöffl Dominik Saul
author_sort	Saskia Mundry
title	Hangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial
title_short	Hangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial
title_full	Hangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial
title_fullStr	Hangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial
title_full_unstemmed	Hangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial
title_sort	hangboard training in advanced climbers: a randomized controlled trial
publisher	Nature Portfolio
publishDate	2021
url	https://doaj.org/article/3ca7086dbe44457fbd3e44fd8d1e66a8
work_keys_str_mv	AT saskiamundry hangboardtraininginadvancedclimbersarandomizedcontrolledtrial AT ginosteinmetz hangboardtraininginadvancedclimbersarandomizedcontrolledtrial AT elizabethjatkinson hangboardtraininginadvancedclimbersarandomizedcontrolledtrial AT arndtfschilling hangboardtraininginadvancedclimbersarandomizedcontrolledtrial AT volkerrschoffl hangboardtraininginadvancedclimbersarandomizedcontrolledtrial AT dominiksaul hangboardtraininginadvancedclimbersarandomizedcontrolledtrial
_version_	1718391122741428224

Hangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial

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