Before They Dyed. Mordants and Assists in the Textile Dyeing Process in Anglo-Saxon and Anglo-Scandinavian Britain: An Experimental Approach

The experiment aimed to investigate certain aspects of the textile dyeing process in Anglo-Scandinavian and Anglo-Saxon Britain: substances known as mordants and assists. This aspect of the dyeing process is often omitted by researchers, who mostly focus on dyestuff as a source of colour. Mordants a...

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Autor principal: Katarzyna Stasińska
Formato: article
Lenguaje:EN
Publicado: EXARC 2021
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Acceso en línea:https://doaj.org/article/5080f1988c2f4cff81e56f4bdfde3e89
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spelling oai:doaj.org-article:5080f1988c2f4cff81e56f4bdfde3e892021-12-01T14:42:35ZBefore They Dyed. Mordants and Assists in the Textile Dyeing Process in Anglo-Saxon and Anglo-Scandinavian Britain: An Experimental Approach2212-8956https://doaj.org/article/5080f1988c2f4cff81e56f4bdfde3e892021-11-01T00:00:00Zhttps://exarc.net/ark:/88735/10603https://doaj.org/toc/2212-8956The experiment aimed to investigate certain aspects of the textile dyeing process in Anglo-Scandinavian and Anglo-Saxon Britain: substances known as mordants and assists. This aspect of the dyeing process is often omitted by researchers, who mostly focus on dyestuff as a source of colour. Mordants and assists deserve wider research, however, as they play a great part in the dyeing process and can radically change the outcome. They are derived from different sources, both mineral and organic, and are added during the dyeing process to influence the final result, mostly in aspects of shade and/or fastness. For the experiment, madder (Rubia tinctorum) was chosen as a dyestuff, as it was one of the most popular dyeing plants in Britain before the Norman Conquest. The fibre of choice used for the experiment was wool spun from the Shetland sheep fleece. Investigation of several sources, written, archaeological and ethnographic, allowed compilation of a list of 16 mordants and assists which were available to use in Early Medieval Britain during the pre-Conquest period. One untreated sample was prepared as a comparison. During and after dyeing, quantitative and qualitative data were collected about pH of the solution, final colour (measured with a colourimeter) and lightfastness (measured with a Blue Wool Scale). A wide range of colours was obtained, and it was found that, in general, adding mordants/assists improved lightfastness.Katarzyna StasińskaEXARCarticledyeingiron ageunited kingdomtextileMuseums. Collectors and collectingAM1-501ArchaeologyCC1-960ENEXARC Journal, Iss 2021/4 (2021)
institution DOAJ
collection DOAJ
language EN
topic dyeing
iron age
united kingdom
textile
Museums. Collectors and collecting
AM1-501
Archaeology
CC1-960
spellingShingle dyeing
iron age
united kingdom
textile
Museums. Collectors and collecting
AM1-501
Archaeology
CC1-960
Katarzyna Stasińska
Before They Dyed. Mordants and Assists in the Textile Dyeing Process in Anglo-Saxon and Anglo-Scandinavian Britain: An Experimental Approach
description The experiment aimed to investigate certain aspects of the textile dyeing process in Anglo-Scandinavian and Anglo-Saxon Britain: substances known as mordants and assists. This aspect of the dyeing process is often omitted by researchers, who mostly focus on dyestuff as a source of colour. Mordants and assists deserve wider research, however, as they play a great part in the dyeing process and can radically change the outcome. They are derived from different sources, both mineral and organic, and are added during the dyeing process to influence the final result, mostly in aspects of shade and/or fastness. For the experiment, madder (Rubia tinctorum) was chosen as a dyestuff, as it was one of the most popular dyeing plants in Britain before the Norman Conquest. The fibre of choice used for the experiment was wool spun from the Shetland sheep fleece. Investigation of several sources, written, archaeological and ethnographic, allowed compilation of a list of 16 mordants and assists which were available to use in Early Medieval Britain during the pre-Conquest period. One untreated sample was prepared as a comparison. During and after dyeing, quantitative and qualitative data were collected about pH of the solution, final colour (measured with a colourimeter) and lightfastness (measured with a Blue Wool Scale). A wide range of colours was obtained, and it was found that, in general, adding mordants/assists improved lightfastness.
format article
author Katarzyna Stasińska
author_facet Katarzyna Stasińska
author_sort Katarzyna Stasińska
title Before They Dyed. Mordants and Assists in the Textile Dyeing Process in Anglo-Saxon and Anglo-Scandinavian Britain: An Experimental Approach
title_short Before They Dyed. Mordants and Assists in the Textile Dyeing Process in Anglo-Saxon and Anglo-Scandinavian Britain: An Experimental Approach
title_full Before They Dyed. Mordants and Assists in the Textile Dyeing Process in Anglo-Saxon and Anglo-Scandinavian Britain: An Experimental Approach
title_fullStr Before They Dyed. Mordants and Assists in the Textile Dyeing Process in Anglo-Saxon and Anglo-Scandinavian Britain: An Experimental Approach
title_full_unstemmed Before They Dyed. Mordants and Assists in the Textile Dyeing Process in Anglo-Saxon and Anglo-Scandinavian Britain: An Experimental Approach
title_sort before they dyed. mordants and assists in the textile dyeing process in anglo-saxon and anglo-scandinavian britain: an experimental approach
publisher EXARC
publishDate 2021
url https://doaj.org/article/5080f1988c2f4cff81e56f4bdfde3e89
work_keys_str_mv AT katarzynastasinska beforetheydyedmordantsandassistsinthetextiledyeingprocessinanglosaxonandangloscandinavianbritainanexperimentalapproach
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