Lambayeque-style textiles in the Ethnologisches Museum, Berlin

The Ethnologisches Museum in Berlin has a large collection of Lambayeque-style textiles from Pachacamac, most of which were collected by Wilhelm Gretzer, a German textile merchant, around 1900. Not many Lambayeque textiles have survived in their area of origin on the north coast of Peru because of u...

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Autor principal:	Lena Bjerregaard
Formato:	article
Lenguaje:	EN FR PT
Publicado:	Centre de Recherches sur les Mondes Américains 2016
Materias:	Lambayeque Sican clothing iconography technique dyes Anthropology GN1-890 Latin America. Spanish America F1201-3799
Acceso en línea:	https://doaj.org/article/794da9fe105c43558087a4f574fe512c
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spelling	oai:doaj.org-article:794da9fe105c43558087a4f574fe512c2021-12-02T10:29:27ZLambayeque-style textiles in the Ethnologisches Museum, Berlin1626-025210.4000/nuevomundo.69290https://doaj.org/article/794da9fe105c43558087a4f574fe512c2016-07-01T00:00:00Zhttp://journals.openedition.org/nuevomundo/69290https://doaj.org/toc/1626-0252The Ethnologisches Museum in Berlin has a large collection of Lambayeque-style textiles from Pachacamac, most of which were collected by Wilhelm Gretzer, a German textile merchant, around 1900. Not many Lambayeque textiles have survived in their area of origin on the north coast of Peru because of unfavourable climatic conditions, but preservation is better at Pachacamac, which is on the central coast. The Lambayeque style had its greatest period between about A.D. 900 and 1100.Many of the tapestry fragments depict an anthropomorphic figure that presumably represents a Lambayeque deity or lord, but plants, animals, and people engaged in daily or ceremonial activities are even more common. Many of the plant motifs are three-dimensional, with loops projecting from a tapestry-woven surface. Many fragments include camelid fibre yarns dyed green, which is unusual among other textile styles known from pre-Hispanic Peru.This paper presents the Lambayeque textiles in Berlin and describes their techniques, dyes, clothing styles, and iconography. In addition, I identify for the first time an unusual garment that is probably a woman’s hip cloth.Lena BjerregaardCentre de Recherches sur les Mondes AméricainsarticleLambayequeSicanclothingiconographytechniquedyesAnthropologyGN1-890Latin America. Spanish AmericaF1201-3799ENFRPTNuevo mundo - Mundos Nuevos (2016)
institution	DOAJ
collection	DOAJ
language	EN FR PT
topic	Lambayeque Sican clothing iconography technique dyes Anthropology GN1-890 Latin America. Spanish America F1201-3799
spellingShingle	Lambayeque Sican clothing iconography technique dyes Anthropology GN1-890 Latin America. Spanish America F1201-3799 Lena Bjerregaard Lambayeque-style textiles in the Ethnologisches Museum, Berlin
description	The Ethnologisches Museum in Berlin has a large collection of Lambayeque-style textiles from Pachacamac, most of which were collected by Wilhelm Gretzer, a German textile merchant, around 1900. Not many Lambayeque textiles have survived in their area of origin on the north coast of Peru because of unfavourable climatic conditions, but preservation is better at Pachacamac, which is on the central coast. The Lambayeque style had its greatest period between about A.D. 900 and 1100.Many of the tapestry fragments depict an anthropomorphic figure that presumably represents a Lambayeque deity or lord, but plants, animals, and people engaged in daily or ceremonial activities are even more common. Many of the plant motifs are three-dimensional, with loops projecting from a tapestry-woven surface. Many fragments include camelid fibre yarns dyed green, which is unusual among other textile styles known from pre-Hispanic Peru.This paper presents the Lambayeque textiles in Berlin and describes their techniques, dyes, clothing styles, and iconography. In addition, I identify for the first time an unusual garment that is probably a woman’s hip cloth.
format	article
author	Lena Bjerregaard
author_facet	Lena Bjerregaard
author_sort	Lena Bjerregaard
title	Lambayeque-style textiles in the Ethnologisches Museum, Berlin
title_short	Lambayeque-style textiles in the Ethnologisches Museum, Berlin
title_full	Lambayeque-style textiles in the Ethnologisches Museum, Berlin
title_fullStr	Lambayeque-style textiles in the Ethnologisches Museum, Berlin
title_full_unstemmed	Lambayeque-style textiles in the Ethnologisches Museum, Berlin
title_sort	lambayeque-style textiles in the ethnologisches museum, berlin
publisher	Centre de Recherches sur les Mondes Américains
publishDate	2016
url	https://doaj.org/article/794da9fe105c43558087a4f574fe512c
work_keys_str_mv	AT lenabjerregaard lambayequestyletextilesintheethnologischesmuseumberlin
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Lambayeque-style textiles in the Ethnologisches Museum, Berlin

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