Deep neural networks for active wave breaking classification

Abstract Wave breaking is an important process for energy dissipation in the open ocean and coastal seas. It drives beach morphodynamics, controls air-sea interactions, determines when ship and offshore structure operations can occur safely, and influences on the retrieval of ocean properties from s...

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Autores principales: Caio Eadi Stringari, Pedro Veras Guimarães, Jean-François Filipot, Fabien Leckler, Rui Duarte
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Lenguaje:EN
Publicado: Nature Portfolio 2021
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Acceso en línea:https://doaj.org/article/c794f5a8c357497da7d41ffed41a0f97
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spelling oai:doaj.org-article:c794f5a8c357497da7d41ffed41a0f972021-12-02T14:27:02ZDeep neural networks for active wave breaking classification10.1038/s41598-021-83188-y2045-2322https://doaj.org/article/c794f5a8c357497da7d41ffed41a0f972021-02-01T00:00:00Zhttps://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-021-83188-yhttps://doaj.org/toc/2045-2322Abstract Wave breaking is an important process for energy dissipation in the open ocean and coastal seas. It drives beach morphodynamics, controls air-sea interactions, determines when ship and offshore structure operations can occur safely, and influences on the retrieval of ocean properties from satellites. Still, wave breaking lacks a proper physical understanding mainly due to scarce observational field data. Consequently, new methods and data are required to improve our current understanding of this process. In this paper we present a novel machine learning method to detect active wave breaking, that is, waves that are actively generating visible bubble entrainment in video imagery data. The present method is based on classical machine learning and deep learning techniques and is made freely available to the community alongside this publication. The results indicate that our best performing model had a balanced classification accuracy score of $$\approx$$ ≈ 90% when classifying active wave breaking in the test dataset. An example of a direct application of the method includes a statistical description of geometrical and kinematic properties of breaking waves. We expect that the present method and the associated dataset will be crucial for future research related to wave breaking in several areas of research, which include but are not limited to: improving operational forecast models, developing risk assessment and coastal management tools, and refining the retrieval of remotely sensed ocean properties.Caio Eadi StringariPedro Veras GuimarãesJean-François FilipotFabien LecklerRui DuarteNature PortfolioarticleMedicineRScienceQENScientific Reports, Vol 11, Iss 1, Pp 1-12 (2021)
institution DOAJ
collection DOAJ
language EN
topic Medicine
R
Science
Q
spellingShingle Medicine
R
Science
Q
Caio Eadi Stringari
Pedro Veras Guimarães
Jean-François Filipot
Fabien Leckler
Rui Duarte
Deep neural networks for active wave breaking classification
description Abstract Wave breaking is an important process for energy dissipation in the open ocean and coastal seas. It drives beach morphodynamics, controls air-sea interactions, determines when ship and offshore structure operations can occur safely, and influences on the retrieval of ocean properties from satellites. Still, wave breaking lacks a proper physical understanding mainly due to scarce observational field data. Consequently, new methods and data are required to improve our current understanding of this process. In this paper we present a novel machine learning method to detect active wave breaking, that is, waves that are actively generating visible bubble entrainment in video imagery data. The present method is based on classical machine learning and deep learning techniques and is made freely available to the community alongside this publication. The results indicate that our best performing model had a balanced classification accuracy score of $$\approx$$ ≈ 90% when classifying active wave breaking in the test dataset. An example of a direct application of the method includes a statistical description of geometrical and kinematic properties of breaking waves. We expect that the present method and the associated dataset will be crucial for future research related to wave breaking in several areas of research, which include but are not limited to: improving operational forecast models, developing risk assessment and coastal management tools, and refining the retrieval of remotely sensed ocean properties.
format article
author Caio Eadi Stringari
Pedro Veras Guimarães
Jean-François Filipot
Fabien Leckler
Rui Duarte
author_facet Caio Eadi Stringari
Pedro Veras Guimarães
Jean-François Filipot
Fabien Leckler
Rui Duarte
author_sort Caio Eadi Stringari
title Deep neural networks for active wave breaking classification
title_short Deep neural networks for active wave breaking classification
title_full Deep neural networks for active wave breaking classification
title_fullStr Deep neural networks for active wave breaking classification
title_full_unstemmed Deep neural networks for active wave breaking classification
title_sort deep neural networks for active wave breaking classification
publisher Nature Portfolio
publishDate 2021
url https://doaj.org/article/c794f5a8c357497da7d41ffed41a0f97
work_keys_str_mv AT caioeadistringari deepneuralnetworksforactivewavebreakingclassification
AT pedroverasguimaraes deepneuralnetworksforactivewavebreakingclassification
AT jeanfrancoisfilipot deepneuralnetworksforactivewavebreakingclassification
AT fabienleckler deepneuralnetworksforactivewavebreakingclassification
AT ruiduarte deepneuralnetworksforactivewavebreakingclassification
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