Antithesis versus Inspiration: Chinese Clothing in the Eyes of Western Theorists and Fashion Designers

Dress is a part of Chinese cultural heritage that has fascinated Western audiences for centuries. On the National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of China, there are items related to textiles, embroideries and certain examples of Chinese clothing. This article analyses issues connected with th...

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Autor principal:	Magdalena Grela-Chen
Formato:	article
Lenguaje:	EN PL
Publicado:	Ksiegarnia Akademicka Publishing 2020
Materias:	fashion dress intangible heritage China West Ethnology. Social and cultural anthropology GN301-674
Acceso en línea:	https://doaj.org/article/d659ff6f63aa4bee83dd3a20b108a25f
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spelling	oai:doaj.org-article:d659ff6f63aa4bee83dd3a20b108a25f2021-11-27T12:54:59ZAntithesis versus Inspiration: Chinese Clothing in the Eyes of Western Theorists and Fashion Designers10.12797/RM.02.2020.08.052544-21392544-2546https://doaj.org/article/d659ff6f63aa4bee83dd3a20b108a25f2020-11-01T00:00:00Zhttps://journals.akademicka.pl/relacje/article/view/2515https://doaj.org/toc/2544-2139https://doaj.org/toc/2544-2546 Dress is a part of Chinese cultural heritage that has fascinated Western audiences for centuries. On the National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of China, there are items related to textiles, embroideries and certain examples of Chinese clothing. This article analyses issues connected with the different uses of Chinese dress in the West. To fashion theorists such as Bell, Wilson, Sapir and Veblen, Chinese dress was the opposite of modern Western clothing and did not deserve to be called fashion. However, researchers such as Welters, Lillethun and Craik have opposed viewing fashion theory through a Eurocentric prism in their desire to rewrite fashion history. Fashion designers drew ideas from China, treating it as a source of inspiration to create their own original designs. For some of them, such as Yves Saint Laurent, it was a China of their imagination. In certain cases, they made use of porcelain designs or dragon motifs in their own collections, for instance, in designs by Cavalli and Ford. The incorporation of Chinese garments into Western collections has also become visible. Magdalena Grela-ChenKsiegarnia Akademicka Publishingarticlefashiondressintangible heritageChinaWestEthnology. Social and cultural anthropologyGN301-674ENPLRelacje Międzykulturowe, Vol 4, Iss 2(8) (2020)
institution	DOAJ
collection	DOAJ
language	EN PL
topic	fashion dress intangible heritage China West Ethnology. Social and cultural anthropology GN301-674
spellingShingle	fashion dress intangible heritage China West Ethnology. Social and cultural anthropology GN301-674 Magdalena Grela-Chen Antithesis versus Inspiration: Chinese Clothing in the Eyes of Western Theorists and Fashion Designers
description	Dress is a part of Chinese cultural heritage that has fascinated Western audiences for centuries. On the National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of China, there are items related to textiles, embroideries and certain examples of Chinese clothing. This article analyses issues connected with the different uses of Chinese dress in the West. To fashion theorists such as Bell, Wilson, Sapir and Veblen, Chinese dress was the opposite of modern Western clothing and did not deserve to be called fashion. However, researchers such as Welters, Lillethun and Craik have opposed viewing fashion theory through a Eurocentric prism in their desire to rewrite fashion history. Fashion designers drew ideas from China, treating it as a source of inspiration to create their own original designs. For some of them, such as Yves Saint Laurent, it was a China of their imagination. In certain cases, they made use of porcelain designs or dragon motifs in their own collections, for instance, in designs by Cavalli and Ford. The incorporation of Chinese garments into Western collections has also become visible.
format	article
author	Magdalena Grela-Chen
author_facet	Magdalena Grela-Chen
author_sort	Magdalena Grela-Chen
title	Antithesis versus Inspiration: Chinese Clothing in the Eyes of Western Theorists and Fashion Designers
title_short	Antithesis versus Inspiration: Chinese Clothing in the Eyes of Western Theorists and Fashion Designers
title_full	Antithesis versus Inspiration: Chinese Clothing in the Eyes of Western Theorists and Fashion Designers
title_fullStr	Antithesis versus Inspiration: Chinese Clothing in the Eyes of Western Theorists and Fashion Designers
title_full_unstemmed	Antithesis versus Inspiration: Chinese Clothing in the Eyes of Western Theorists and Fashion Designers
title_sort	antithesis versus inspiration: chinese clothing in the eyes of western theorists and fashion designers
publisher	Ksiegarnia Akademicka Publishing
publishDate	2020
url	https://doaj.org/article/d659ff6f63aa4bee83dd3a20b108a25f
work_keys_str_mv	AT magdalenagrelachen antithesisversusinspirationchineseclothingintheeyesofwesterntheoristsandfashiondesigners
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Antithesis versus Inspiration: Chinese Clothing in the Eyes of Western Theorists and Fashion Designers

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