A Model-Derived Empirical Formulation for Wave Run-Up on Naturally Sloping Beaches

A new set of empirical formulations has been derived to predict wave run-up at naturally sloping sandy beaches. They are obtained by fitting the results of hundreds of XBeach-NH+ model simulations. The simulations are carried out over a wide range of offshore wave conditions (wave heights ranging fr...

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Autores principales:	Maarten van Ormondt, Dano Roelvink, Ap van Dongeren
Formato:	article
Lenguaje:	EN
Publicado:	MDPI AG 2021
Materias:	wave run-up XBeach empirical relation wave set-up swash Naval architecture. Shipbuilding. Marine engineering VM1-989 Oceanography GC1-1581
Acceso en línea:	https://doaj.org/article/de25719340cc48cabab6229d84b4b7da
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spelling	oai:doaj.org-article:de25719340cc48cabab6229d84b4b7da2021-11-25T18:04:00ZA Model-Derived Empirical Formulation for Wave Run-Up on Naturally Sloping Beaches10.3390/jmse91111852077-1312https://doaj.org/article/de25719340cc48cabab6229d84b4b7da2021-10-01T00:00:00Zhttps://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/9/11/1185https://doaj.org/toc/2077-1312A new set of empirical formulations has been derived to predict wave run-up at naturally sloping sandy beaches. They are obtained by fitting the results of hundreds of XBeach-NH+ model simulations. The simulations are carried out over a wide range of offshore wave conditions (wave heights ranging from 1 to 12 m and periods from 6 to 16 s), and surf zone (Dean parameters <i>a<sub>D</sub></i> ranging from 0.05 to 0.30) and beach geometries (slopes ranging from 1:100 to 1:5). The empirical formulations provide estimates of wave set-up, incident and infragravity wave run-up, and total run-up <i>R</i><sub>2<i>%</i></sub>. Reduction coefficients are included to account for the effects of incident wave angle and directional spreading. The formulations have been validated against the Stockdon dataset and show better skill at predicting <i>R</i><sub>2<i>%</i></sub> run-up than the widely used Stockdon relationships. Unlike most existing run-up predictors, the relations presented here include the effect of the surf zone slope, which is shown to be an important parameter for predicting wave run-up. Additionally, this study shows a clear relationship between infragravity run-up and beach slope, unlike most existing predictors.Maarten van OrmondtDano RoelvinkAp van DongerenMDPI AGarticlewave run-upXBeachempirical relationwave set-upswashNaval architecture. Shipbuilding. Marine engineeringVM1-989OceanographyGC1-1581ENJournal of Marine Science and Engineering, Vol 9, Iss 1185, p 1185 (2021)
institution	DOAJ
collection	DOAJ
language	EN
topic	wave run-up XBeach empirical relation wave set-up swash Naval architecture. Shipbuilding. Marine engineering VM1-989 Oceanography GC1-1581
spellingShingle	wave run-up XBeach empirical relation wave set-up swash Naval architecture. Shipbuilding. Marine engineering VM1-989 Oceanography GC1-1581 Maarten van Ormondt Dano Roelvink Ap van Dongeren A Model-Derived Empirical Formulation for Wave Run-Up on Naturally Sloping Beaches
description	A new set of empirical formulations has been derived to predict wave run-up at naturally sloping sandy beaches. They are obtained by fitting the results of hundreds of XBeach-NH+ model simulations. The simulations are carried out over a wide range of offshore wave conditions (wave heights ranging from 1 to 12 m and periods from 6 to 16 s), and surf zone (Dean parameters <i>a<sub>D</sub></i> ranging from 0.05 to 0.30) and beach geometries (slopes ranging from 1:100 to 1:5). The empirical formulations provide estimates of wave set-up, incident and infragravity wave run-up, and total run-up <i>R</i><sub>2<i>%</i></sub>. Reduction coefficients are included to account for the effects of incident wave angle and directional spreading. The formulations have been validated against the Stockdon dataset and show better skill at predicting <i>R</i><sub>2<i>%</i></sub> run-up than the widely used Stockdon relationships. Unlike most existing run-up predictors, the relations presented here include the effect of the surf zone slope, which is shown to be an important parameter for predicting wave run-up. Additionally, this study shows a clear relationship between infragravity run-up and beach slope, unlike most existing predictors.
format	article
author	Maarten van Ormondt Dano Roelvink Ap van Dongeren
author_facet	Maarten van Ormondt Dano Roelvink Ap van Dongeren
author_sort	Maarten van Ormondt
title	A Model-Derived Empirical Formulation for Wave Run-Up on Naturally Sloping Beaches
title_short	A Model-Derived Empirical Formulation for Wave Run-Up on Naturally Sloping Beaches
title_full	A Model-Derived Empirical Formulation for Wave Run-Up on Naturally Sloping Beaches
title_fullStr	A Model-Derived Empirical Formulation for Wave Run-Up on Naturally Sloping Beaches
title_full_unstemmed	A Model-Derived Empirical Formulation for Wave Run-Up on Naturally Sloping Beaches
title_sort	model-derived empirical formulation for wave run-up on naturally sloping beaches
publisher	MDPI AG
publishDate	2021
url	https://doaj.org/article/de25719340cc48cabab6229d84b4b7da
work_keys_str_mv	AT maartenvanormondt amodelderivedempiricalformulationforwaverunuponnaturallyslopingbeaches AT danoroelvink amodelderivedempiricalformulationforwaverunuponnaturallyslopingbeaches AT apvandongeren amodelderivedempiricalformulationforwaverunuponnaturallyslopingbeaches AT maartenvanormondt modelderivedempiricalformulationforwaverunuponnaturallyslopingbeaches AT danoroelvink modelderivedempiricalformulationforwaverunuponnaturallyslopingbeaches AT apvandongeren modelderivedempiricalformulationforwaverunuponnaturallyslopingbeaches
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A Model-Derived Empirical Formulation for Wave Run-Up on Naturally Sloping Beaches

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