Comparison between a wax/volatile oil mixture and vegetable butters in a long-lasting make-up formula: A rheological and structural study compared to product performance☆

The long-lasting make-up was created to avoid migration of the product on the skin throughout the day. Currently, the formulation technology most commonly used to obtain it is based on the use of film-forming agents with volatile oils. However, with the growing trend in natural cosmetics, petroleum-...

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Autores principales:	Hubert Charlène, Meriadec Cristelle, Panizza Pascal, Artzner Franck, de Clermont-Gallerande Hélène
Formato:	article
Lenguaje:	EN FR
Publicado:	EDP Sciences 2020
Materias:	formulation long-lasting eyeshadow volatile oil jojoba butters Oils, fats, and waxes TP670-699
Acceso en línea:	https://doaj.org/article/e3e0c1ca226543ae99ca92288d041705
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spelling	oai:doaj.org-article:e3e0c1ca226543ae99ca92288d0417052021-12-02T17:14:20ZComparison between a wax/volatile oil mixture and vegetable butters in a long-lasting make-up formula: A rheological and structural study compared to product performance☆2272-69772257-661410.1051/ocl/2020035https://doaj.org/article/e3e0c1ca226543ae99ca92288d0417052020-01-01T00:00:00Zhttps://www.ocl-journal.org/articles/ocl/full_html/2020/01/ocl200038/ocl200038.htmlhttps://doaj.org/toc/2272-6977https://doaj.org/toc/2257-6614The long-lasting make-up was created to avoid migration of the product on the skin throughout the day. Currently, the formulation technology most commonly used to obtain it is based on the use of film-forming agents with volatile oils. However, with the growing trend in natural cosmetics, petroleum-based volatile compounds are increasingly being abandoned. The objective of this study is to determine whether a mixture of plant-based butters can be chosen to replace a mixture of volatile oil and synthetic wax in a long-lasting eyeshadow. Initial comparisons were made between two jojoba butters and a wax/volatile oil mixture in order to identify the best candidate to replace the latter. Then, the best candidate was incorporated into formula and finished formulas were compared using sensory evaluation, rheology and X-ray scattering. The results show that it is possible to preserve texture, rheological properties and structural organization of a formula by replacing a wax/oil mixture with vegetable butters. However, this does not mean that the formulas will behave the same on the eyelids over time. This work illustrates the real complexity faced by formulators when they must replace one raw material with another while guaranteeing the durability of all the product’s properties. This challenge is more relevant today as consumer demand for products based on natural ingredients is growing.Hubert CharlèneMeriadec CristellePanizza PascalArtzner Franckde Clermont-Gallerande HélèneEDP Sciencesarticleformulationlong-lasting eyeshadowvolatile oiljojoba buttersOils, fats, and waxesTP670-699ENFROilseeds and fats, crops and lipids, Vol 27, p 42 (2020)
institution	DOAJ
collection	DOAJ
language	EN FR
topic	formulation long-lasting eyeshadow volatile oil jojoba butters Oils, fats, and waxes TP670-699
spellingShingle	formulation long-lasting eyeshadow volatile oil jojoba butters Oils, fats, and waxes TP670-699 Hubert Charlène Meriadec Cristelle Panizza Pascal Artzner Franck de Clermont-Gallerande Hélène Comparison between a wax/volatile oil mixture and vegetable butters in a long-lasting make-up formula: A rheological and structural study compared to product performance☆
description	The long-lasting make-up was created to avoid migration of the product on the skin throughout the day. Currently, the formulation technology most commonly used to obtain it is based on the use of film-forming agents with volatile oils. However, with the growing trend in natural cosmetics, petroleum-based volatile compounds are increasingly being abandoned. The objective of this study is to determine whether a mixture of plant-based butters can be chosen to replace a mixture of volatile oil and synthetic wax in a long-lasting eyeshadow. Initial comparisons were made between two jojoba butters and a wax/volatile oil mixture in order to identify the best candidate to replace the latter. Then, the best candidate was incorporated into formula and finished formulas were compared using sensory evaluation, rheology and X-ray scattering. The results show that it is possible to preserve texture, rheological properties and structural organization of a formula by replacing a wax/oil mixture with vegetable butters. However, this does not mean that the formulas will behave the same on the eyelids over time. This work illustrates the real complexity faced by formulators when they must replace one raw material with another while guaranteeing the durability of all the product’s properties. This challenge is more relevant today as consumer demand for products based on natural ingredients is growing.
format	article
author	Hubert Charlène Meriadec Cristelle Panizza Pascal Artzner Franck de Clermont-Gallerande Hélène
author_facet	Hubert Charlène Meriadec Cristelle Panizza Pascal Artzner Franck de Clermont-Gallerande Hélène
author_sort	Hubert Charlène
title	Comparison between a wax/volatile oil mixture and vegetable butters in a long-lasting make-up formula: A rheological and structural study compared to product performance☆
title_short	Comparison between a wax/volatile oil mixture and vegetable butters in a long-lasting make-up formula: A rheological and structural study compared to product performance☆
title_full	Comparison between a wax/volatile oil mixture and vegetable butters in a long-lasting make-up formula: A rheological and structural study compared to product performance☆
title_fullStr	Comparison between a wax/volatile oil mixture and vegetable butters in a long-lasting make-up formula: A rheological and structural study compared to product performance☆
title_full_unstemmed	Comparison between a wax/volatile oil mixture and vegetable butters in a long-lasting make-up formula: A rheological and structural study compared to product performance☆
title_sort	comparison between a wax/volatile oil mixture and vegetable butters in a long-lasting make-up formula: a rheological and structural study compared to product performance☆
publisher	EDP Sciences
publishDate	2020
url	https://doaj.org/article/e3e0c1ca226543ae99ca92288d041705
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Comparison between a wax/volatile oil mixture and vegetable butters in a long-lasting make-up formula: A rheological and structural study compared to product performance☆

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