Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential

Human skin is colonized by diverse commensal microbes, making up the skin microbiota (SM), contributing to skin integrity and homeostasis. Many of the beneficial effects aroused by the SM are exerted by microbial metabolites such as short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), including butyric acid. The SCFAs...

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Autores principales: Ritamaria di Lorenzo, Antonietta Bernardi, Lucia Grumetto, Antonia Sacchi, Carmen Avagliano, Serena Coppola, Anna Fiorenza de Giovanni di Santa Severina, Cristina Bruno, Lorella Paparo, Sonia Laneri, Irene Dini
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Publicado: MDPI AG 2021
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Acceso en línea:https://doaj.org/article/ff0593684a7d493bbc19daac95075d74
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spelling oai:doaj.org-article:ff0593684a7d493bbc19daac95075d742021-11-11T18:34:57ZPhenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential10.3390/molecules262166111420-3049https://doaj.org/article/ff0593684a7d493bbc19daac95075d742021-10-01T00:00:00Zhttps://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/26/21/6611https://doaj.org/toc/1420-3049Human skin is colonized by diverse commensal microbes, making up the skin microbiota (SM), contributing to skin integrity and homeostasis. Many of the beneficial effects aroused by the SM are exerted by microbial metabolites such as short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), including butyric acid. The SCFAs can be used in cosmetic formulations against skin diseases to protect SM by preserving and/or restoring their natural balance. Unpleasant sensorial properties and unfavorable physico-chemical properties of butyrate strongly limit its cosmetic use. In contrast, some butyrate derivatives, including phenylalanine butyramide (C<sub>13</sub>H<sub>18</sub>N<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub>, FBA), a solid form of butyric acid, are odorless while retaining the pharmacokinetic properties and safety profile of butyric acid. This study assessed the FBA’s permeation across the skin and its soothing and anti-reddening potential to estimate its cosmetic application. The dosage method used to estimate FBA’s levels was validated to be sure of analytical results. The FBA diffusion tests were estimated in vitro using a Franz-type vertical diffusion cell. The soothing action was evaluated in vivo by Colorimeter CL400, measuring the erythema index. The results suggest that the FBA represents an innovative way to exploit the benefits of butyric acid in the cosmetic fields since it cannot reach the bloodstream, is odorless, and has a significative soothing action (decrease the erythema index −15.7% after 30′, and −17.8% after 60′).Ritamaria di LorenzoAntonietta BernardiLucia GrumettoAntonia SacchiCarmen AvaglianoSerena CoppolaAnna Fiorenza de Giovanni di Santa SeverinaCristina BrunoLorella PaparoSonia LaneriIrene DiniMDPI AGarticlebutyrateskin microbiotaskin permeationerythema indexsoothing and anti-reddening effectOrganic chemistryQD241-441ENMolecules, Vol 26, Iss 6611, p 6611 (2021)
institution DOAJ
collection DOAJ
language EN
topic butyrate
skin microbiota
skin permeation
erythema index
soothing and anti-reddening effect
Organic chemistry
QD241-441
spellingShingle butyrate
skin microbiota
skin permeation
erythema index
soothing and anti-reddening effect
Organic chemistry
QD241-441
Ritamaria di Lorenzo
Antonietta Bernardi
Lucia Grumetto
Antonia Sacchi
Carmen Avagliano
Serena Coppola
Anna Fiorenza de Giovanni di Santa Severina
Cristina Bruno
Lorella Paparo
Sonia Laneri
Irene Dini
Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential
description Human skin is colonized by diverse commensal microbes, making up the skin microbiota (SM), contributing to skin integrity and homeostasis. Many of the beneficial effects aroused by the SM are exerted by microbial metabolites such as short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), including butyric acid. The SCFAs can be used in cosmetic formulations against skin diseases to protect SM by preserving and/or restoring their natural balance. Unpleasant sensorial properties and unfavorable physico-chemical properties of butyrate strongly limit its cosmetic use. In contrast, some butyrate derivatives, including phenylalanine butyramide (C<sub>13</sub>H<sub>18</sub>N<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub>, FBA), a solid form of butyric acid, are odorless while retaining the pharmacokinetic properties and safety profile of butyric acid. This study assessed the FBA’s permeation across the skin and its soothing and anti-reddening potential to estimate its cosmetic application. The dosage method used to estimate FBA’s levels was validated to be sure of analytical results. The FBA diffusion tests were estimated in vitro using a Franz-type vertical diffusion cell. The soothing action was evaluated in vivo by Colorimeter CL400, measuring the erythema index. The results suggest that the FBA represents an innovative way to exploit the benefits of butyric acid in the cosmetic fields since it cannot reach the bloodstream, is odorless, and has a significative soothing action (decrease the erythema index −15.7% after 30′, and −17.8% after 60′).
format article
author Ritamaria di Lorenzo
Antonietta Bernardi
Lucia Grumetto
Antonia Sacchi
Carmen Avagliano
Serena Coppola
Anna Fiorenza de Giovanni di Santa Severina
Cristina Bruno
Lorella Paparo
Sonia Laneri
Irene Dini
author_facet Ritamaria di Lorenzo
Antonietta Bernardi
Lucia Grumetto
Antonia Sacchi
Carmen Avagliano
Serena Coppola
Anna Fiorenza de Giovanni di Santa Severina
Cristina Bruno
Lorella Paparo
Sonia Laneri
Irene Dini
author_sort Ritamaria di Lorenzo
title Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential
title_short Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential
title_full Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential
title_fullStr Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential
title_full_unstemmed Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential
title_sort phenylalanine butyramide is a new cosmetic ingredient with soothing and anti-reddening potential
publisher MDPI AG
publishDate 2021
url https://doaj.org/article/ff0593684a7d493bbc19daac95075d74
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